Painting Link actually felt like a fun mechanic that added to puzzles rather than a gimmick. Also, I liked that a lot of the puzzles took advantage of ALBW's 3D perspective.
I thought most of the Light World dungeon design was kind of bland -- Eastern Palace was very eh and I don't remember House of Gales one bloody bit (because it sucked). Tower of Hera was okay, I guess. As far as the Lorule dungeons, most of them ruled. Thieves' Hideout was probably the weakest one since it all hinged on a single (lame, overdone) gimmick, although the boss battle was sweet and probably the best in the game. Turtle Rock, while fun in spots, felt kind of hollow/empty overall and there really wasn't much to navigate.
So that leaves Desert Palace (my personal favorite), Swamp Palace, and Palace of Darkness, all of which probably rank among some of my favorite dungeons in any Zelda game. Skull Woods and Ice Ruins weren't bad either! (The latter was probably the weirdest dungeon in terms of overall design in any Zelda game, though. Not even bad, just, like, ... what's the opposite of claustrophobia? I think it gave me that feeling. Imagine Ice Ruins being redone in the ALTTP engine, like, without the ability to see everything below like in ALBW's engine. It would look WEIRD.)
I'm not sure how they pulled this off, but the overworld managed to not feel a single thing like A Link to the Past's despite virtually being the same. One of my favorite things about Death Mountain in ALTTP was the fact that it had, like, this intricate cave network that you could get lost in -- that's absent from ALBW, being replaced with weird floating platform/boulder dodging gauntlets. Nearly every other minor cave in the game is either a single square room, or a weird obstacle course of some sort where treasure hunters watch your every move. I'm not sure how to feel about this development, but some of the "obstacle course" caves I talked about had some interesting puzzle design, so I'll give the game props for that, I guess.
I realize this is a matter of taste and I have friends that really liked the music, but I just gotta be real about my feelings here: With the exception of the arranged Light World dungeon music and a couple of other tunes, I thought the music sucked. Most of the arranged forms of ALTTP either featured only superficial deviations in the form of the soundbank being different, or sounded no more inspired than a throwaway Nintendo pre-release YouTube video promo. The original dungeon themes were the most soulless, bland ambient songs ever written, and most of the other original songs could pass for songs from some bad RuneScape knockoff browser RPG.
Did I bitch about the graphics before the game came out? I think I did. They looked awful and muddy and oversaturated in promo screenshots, but on the actual 3DS screen they really don't look half bad. And I didn't even play with the 3D on! (The 3D hurts my eyes too much. ;_; ) It's not, like, the most eye-poppingly gorgeous Zelda game to ever grace the Little Screens, but it still looks pretty good. Some of the dungeons looked really neat aesthetically, actually. (I'm thinking of Dark Palace here!)
Boss fights that actually gave me trouble to the point they felt tense: The hand dude in Skull Woods, Blind, Yuga, uhhh I guess Darkstare maybe. That's still more difficult bosses than have usually been in Zelda games lately, so... I guess that's cool?
I'm not sure how I feel about the item rental system. One of my favorite aspects of Zelda in general is uncovering the dungeon item and discovering its uses and I was sad to see that aspect mostly gone -- you get equipment items from Lorule dungeons only as dungeon items. (Three of which are Master Ore chunks!? Really? C'mon, you guys couldn't at least invent some sort of new equipment items?) The game only featured two substantially new items: the Tornado Rod (which blew, har har, but seriously it wasn't an interesting item at all) and the Sand Rod (which actually was quite fun). I'm not terribly upset to have access to every item from the start, though -- what does annoy me is that you lose everything when you die unless you actually buy items. I'm not sure what the point of having this mechanic was that couldn't be achieved equally as well by just forcing you to lose a set number of rupees every time you die. I guess there had to be some sorta rupee sink, though, considering all the different places you can get money.
The story is pretty standard Zelda fare, although there's a couple of plot twists that are actually pretty interesting and the ending was surprisingly compelling, I felt. Not groundbreaking or heart-wrenching, no, but enough to where you felt some sympathy for the characters. Most of the characters were generically tropey or Zelda mainstays, but they were all likable and fun, so whatever.
Maiamamiamiamaimaiais are the cutest lil things ever.
I think it's a pretty good, maybe great Zelda game, but not one of the all-time best. I'm not sure how it holds up as a sequel to A Link to the Past... I think in terms of mood it actually shares very little in common with that game -- as non-linear as it goes out of its way to be, it feels more obstacle and puzzle focused like a modern Zelda than exploration and combat focused like its predecessor. It's also far, far less difficult than its predecessor, as you might expect.
I guess if I were to give it a numeric rating... uh... a low 8/10 would probably be suitable.

